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bimmer
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Posted: Thu May 6th, 2010 07:57 am |
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glad you got some discount for the wheel, it usually works if it means a sale.
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honkers
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Posted: Wed May 5th, 2010 10:10 pm |
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Hi guys again.
Yeah, the seller agreed to reduce the sale price of the car by the amount for which I can buy a wheel off e-bay, so I'm pretty relaxed about that. Whe I get a moment I'll photograph the offending wheel and let you guys see what the problem was.
Meantime, thanks for you help, particularly spunkymonkey for the info on the office of fair trading guidance.
Cheers
Steve
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Clifford Pope
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Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 08:35 am |
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| Just ask yourself whether you would be happy sitting with it on your lap, or whether the word "explosion" might go through your mind.
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Spongebob
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Posted: Tue Apr 27th, 2010 12:42 am |
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| I suppose it depends what the original poster means by a chunk missing. If it's a piece of rim bead missing (ie exposing the tyre beneath) then I wouldn't hesitate to fail it but if it's a heavy graze then probably pass and advise. There would of course be the question of other damage such as buckling of the wheel (or even suspension damage) to consider as well.
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rocky69
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Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 06:12 pm |
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sounds like a pass an advise to me
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Spunkymonkey
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Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 01:24 pm |
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It's worth bearing in mind when you approach the dealer that a dealer is liable if he sells a car that turns out to be unroadworthy. The presence of a valid MOT isn't a defence against that so if there's any doubt it's really in his interest to sort it out before sale.
That means that if you were to get pulled over with the damaged wheel, fined and got points on your license you'd have a good basis for a claim against him, even though roadworthiness is ultimately the driver's responsibility, because it would be fair for you to assume that the damage didn't affect roadworthiness on the basis that a dealer couldn't have sold it like that if it did.
Sections 5.13 and 5.14 on the OFT guidance to dealers at http://www.oft.gov.uk/shared_oft/reports/676408/OFT1152con.pdf  makes it clear that selling an unroadworthy vehicle is an offence under the General Product Safety Regulations 2005 and also breaches the Consumer Protection Regulations.
Interestingly (which I didn't realise), Section 10.1 of the guidance warns that even stating that the car is unroadworthy is an offence under the Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations 2008 by attempting to restrict the consumer's rights.
Of course, there's nothing in all that to stop him deciding he doesn't want to sell to you and then sell it to someone with less stringent pre-purchase checks.
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bimmer
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Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 09:06 am |
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hi honkers,
i agree with you as far as the wheel assesment and good luck with the car,hope you get a new wheel out of the deal. 
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honkers
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Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 07:47 am |
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Bimmer
No, havent paid for the car yet, will take your advice. I agree that if a tester gives in to pressure then he is not doing his job, but the guidelines in this case are so vague that almost any interpretation can be justified, and the tester may feel he is perfectly within his rights to either pass or fail the car.
It's a difficult one to deal with. maybe of you guys have an association you could bring up this point.
Steve
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bimmer
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Posted: Wed Apr 21st, 2010 07:13 am |
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have you already bought the car, if not tell them you will sign the dotted line if they change the wheel. some will if only to make a sale in these "hard times"
on a seperate note if a tester gives in to pressure then he should not be doing the job.
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honkers
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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 08:34 pm |
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This to both Kev and Bimmer. Yeah, Bimmer, I have seen the guidance notes and it's as you say, it's down to the individual tester and like I say in my queation, he can be two very different people, with lots ofexternal pressures to make him come down hard or easy on a given piece of damage.
I agree Kev, trouble is, I didn't have my camera with me and even if I had I probly wouldn't have had the common dog to take a pic!
that's life.
Thanks for replying anyway.
Steve
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kev1975
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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 07:09 pm |
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it would be a lot easier to give an opinion if you had a picture , only problem would be getting a picture 
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bimmer
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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 06:58 pm |
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hi honkers
have a look at link from the testers manual, granted it is a bit vague but it is what we have to test from. the end result is what the tester decides.
http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m3s04000201.htm
Last edited on Tue Apr 20th, 2010 07:00 pm by bimmer
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honkers
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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 06:38 pm |
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Hi guys. I'm new here, looking for some info to take to a dealer who is selling me a car. It will be sold with a full MOT. In my walkround inspection I noted the front nearside alloy wheel has been curbed. The damage is roughly semi circular and a little over the size of a 50p piece, and it is right on the rim of the wheel. there is a chunk out of the rim about half to three quarters of an inch in diameter and the surface ia corroded and stringy. I have looked at a couple of MOT websites and in none of them is there any specific guidance on wheel condition. There's lots on tyres and just about everything else but, surprisingly nothing on wheels bar a bland statement about dents and damage. So, we have the situation when one tester, with an agenda (wants to see the car sold, or is testing for someone who sells cars, and who puts a lot of work his way ) who might say a certain level of damage is OK, whereas another tester with no axes to grind may condemn the wheel. I believe the wheel should be changed, as a lifetime in the aircraft industry tells me that damaged alloy can be unpredictable and often requires complex repair action including blending, polishing, crack detection and shot peening to discourage fatigue failure. Also, a piece of the rim is actually missing.
So, can anyone help with an opinion or a suggested course of action? (Apart from "don't buy the car" of course!)
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